How to Sew a Quilted Waistcoat

* Sewing Machine
* Simplicity Waistcoat and Trousers Pattern (S9184)
* 4m of Fabric (2m for the Inside and 2m for the Outside - We've Used Different Fabrics to Make it Reversible)
* Contrasting Fabric to Make Bias Binding (Or Use Pre-Made Bias Binding)
* Matching Thread
* 2m Wadding
* Cutting Mat
* Rotary Cutter
* Quilting Ruler
* Tape Measure
* Dressmaking Scissors
* Fabric Chalk (Optional)
* Pins

First make some alterations to the basic pattern in order to achieve the cropped design. To do this, take a measuring tape and measure from your armpit to where you would like the waistcoat to fall. We recommend just above the hip for a flattering fit.

Cut out the pattern pieces. From the same point on the underarm, mark the amended length on the pattern piece and cut the piece to the new length.

Pin the pattern pieces to the first fabric and cut them all out. Repeat with the second fabric and the wadding.

Sandwich the wadding pieces between the two contrasting fabrics and secure them in place with pins.

Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, quilt your vertical lines, leaving a 1.5cm gap between them.

Tip: You can use chalk or washi tape to mark out the lines if necessary.

When all of your pieces are quilted, sew together the shoulder seams and side seams as per the instructions. Don't worrying about finishing the seams as we’re going to use bias binding to do this next.

To make your own bias binding, cut your contrasting fabric into 5cm strips, fold it in half and press. Then open your fabric up and fold the edges in on themselves so the raw edge is running parallel with the centre fold.

If you are using pre-made bias binding then simply skip this step.

Once you’ve made as much bias binding as you’ll need (this will depend on the size of your waistcoat) start attaching it to the waistcoat. To do this, sandwich the edges of the waistcoat inside the bias binding, pin everything in place and then stitch together.

Start with the shoulder seams and side seams, as this will join all your pieces together. You may need to trim the bias binding down for these sections.

Repeat for the armholes.

Finally, pin the bias binding all around the outside edges of your waistcoat. Do not sew these down just yet, as you will need to attach the ties first.

To make the front ties, cut two 5x30cm strips and foldusing the same bias binding technique as before. To close them up, pin them closed and then stitch down the open side, neatly along the edge.

Pin the ties underneath the bias binding on your waistcoat, making sure they line up correctly and then finish stitching everything in place.

Trim all your loose threads and your new reversible waistcoat is ready to go!